Murray Wilson is an avid collector (and, more importantly, an avid operator) of vintage clockwork trains. He is a darn nice guy and has shared his thoughts on vintage clockwork mechanisms as a basis for clockwork-powered creations.

Introduction

I run my clockwork engines "as built" as far as possible, but am always on the lookout for clockwork mechanisms on which to build a "special". This I am supposing would be the interest of most readers, as there has never been much clockwork narrow gauge around and I know n.g. is the major focus. So I will more or less ignore the "collectibles" and just suggest what to look for as donors of mechanisms on which to build. As far as I know there is not currently a source of new, good quality gauge 0 clockwork locos, so we have to fall back on engines made at least 30 years ago. American-made clockwork trains were never plentiful, so what few are around today are "collectibles" and outside our present scope. In the USA Marklin and Bing also automatically command high prices, so we have to look for what is left that is of good quality, reasonably available and affordable. That almost restricts us to Hornby.

Hornby

Hornby did manufacture in the USA for a while, but sold the factory to A.C. Gilbert in 1928, so these trains will tend to be "collectible". The affordable Hornby locos commonly seen at swap meets are usually post-WWII British production, which continued up to the mid-1960s. These were all 0-4-0s. The 4-4-0s, 4-4-2s, etc., so beloved by collectors, were not reintroduced after WWII. So let's concentrate on the 0-4-0s.

The best buy is the M1, or Model 30, as it later became. This is very much a toy in outline, has a very tinny tender, but was fitted with a good, reversing mechanism. In rough cosmetic condition, without tender, but sound mechanically, the M1 can be found for as little as $15, but usually would be at least twice that. It makes a fine basis for kitbashing and with the standard 1" diameter diecast wheels will run about 170 feet. If you are not used to clockwork that may not seem to be very far, but it is an excellent performance for a gauge 0 engine.

Hornby always put their name on a loco, but usually not the model number. The identifying features of the M1 are the wheel diameter, the sturdy brake and reverse levers that project from the backhead, and the one-piece pressing that forms the body. If there is only one lever then the engine is probably an M0 and non-reversing. This is not as good a mechanism as the M1. The M1-type was in production over a period of 35 years and naturally there were some improvements in that time. The only one that really concerns us was a modification to the spring installation. The early engines, up to 1947 (which are not very common), had the spring anchored at the rear. They will only run about 115 feet, so make sure you get an engine with the spring anchored at the front. It is actually easier to check it is not anchored at the back; the front anchor position is a little difficult to spot.

A sturdier-bodied engine with a different, but really not better, clockwork motor was the M3, later known as the 101, and then the 40. It is a tank engine. Again it is very toylike, but it has larger wheels, 1.2" diameter, and a more substantial superstructure. It too will run about 170 feet. A similar mechanism is used in the 501, 50, and 51 tender engines. These engines tend to be considerably more expensive, if complete, but are often found without their tenders and in tatty cosmetic condition, which brings then into our range. Identifying features are the Hornby name and two controls that are stiff horizontal wires projecting back horizontally through the backhead from fairly high up. If the knobs are still on the wires they will be flattish, round brass discs with a milled edge.

Karl Bub

The only other fairly common, worthwhile, and inexpensive loco is a small Karl Bub 0-4-0 tender engine. It will have the initials KBN impressed in the smokebox front. Some don't have reverse, so be sure to check. Rather high built and short in appearance, and usually without much of its original litho surviving, one of these can be picked up fairly cheaply without tender, as it probably will be. It will run about 85 feet with its usual 1.25" diameter wheels. The mechanism is inferior to all of the Hornbys. The controls are stiff horizontal wires with cast-on poker handles.

Many other different KBN locos turn up from time to time. KBN is rather looked down on today, perhaps because they did make some very tinny stuff towards the end of the company's life. Many of their early engines however are fine performers and it is possible to pick up bargains.

Other Manufacturers

A good mechanism by Bing, Marklin, or Bassett Lowke might also be found at the right price, but it is unlikely. If price is no object, there are plenty of complete, collectible engines around. Marklin and Bassett Lowke always used excellent clockwork mechanisms, but those of Bing and KBN vary considerably in quality. Their best are very good, and a glance at the gears will tell which you are looking at as the cheaper mechanisms have very thin gearwheels and the pinions will quite likely have been damaged by them.

A very desirable mechanism is the Walker Fenn. This is usually found in a modified Marklin 0-6-0 tank engine. Its noteworthy feature is an adjustable governor which provides realistic slow running. A phonograph governor was used, but some independent modifiers used the governor from a rotary telephone dial. The Walker Fenn can be found, but I have yet to see one at an enticing price.

Repair

If there is no winding key available at the time of buying, then about all that can be done is to check the spring and the ratchets by turning the wheels backwards a few turns. Just make sure you are turning them in the direction that can be seen to be winding the spring arbor the appropriate way.

Broken springs are not necessarily a big problem; quite often the spring has failed at one end and can be reterminated. If a new spring is necessary then a clock repairer often will have, or can get, a replacement spring. Most of the mechanisms were not made with a view to future dismantling, and so if you have to dismantle one (which is not usually necessary for spring replacement), some new method of holding the motor plates together must be devised. This is not normally difficult to arrange.

Broken ratchets are a different matter. If they are simple spring steel finger type (most are) and have broken or worn, then new ones will have to be made and that is not a job most of us would care to tackle.It is sometimes said a battery loco is always ready to go should a visitor wish to see something run. That has not been my experience with battery-powered anythings. Put a clockwork loco on the motive power roster, though, and there will be fewer disappointed visitors. Just don't mislay the key.

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